What is fabric gsm and why it matter when choosing fabric

Fabric GSM is an important factor to consider when selecting fabric for your project. GSM stands for ‘Grams per Square Meter’ and is a measure of the weight of a fabric. Knowing the GSM of a fabric can help you decide which fabric is best for your project, as it can affect the feel, drape, and durability of the fabric. In this blog post, we’ll explore what fabric GSM is, why it matters, and how to choose the right fabric for your needs.

What does fabric GSM mean?

Fabric GSM, an acronym for Grams per Square Meter, is a key metric in the textile industry that refers to the weight of a fabric. More specifically, it measures the weight of a single square meter of fabric, making it a reliable way to understand the density, thickness, and durability of different types of fabrics.

The GSM of a fabric is determined using a special scale. A small sample of the fabric is taken, usually, a piece that is one meter squared, and its weight in grams is measured. This weight is the fabric’s GSM.

Typical fabric weights and uses

Fabric weights can vary significantly depending on the type of fabric and its intended use. Here’s a general guide to typical fabric weights and their common applications:

1. Lightweight Fabrics (Below 150 GSM):
   • These are typically thin, soft, and breathable fabrics.
   • Common types include voile, batiste, and chiffon.
   • They’re often used for making summer clothing, lingerie, and delicate home décor items like sheer curtains.
2. Medium Weight Fabrics (150-350 GSM):
   • These fabrics strike a balance between durability and breathability.
   • Common types include poplin, flannel, and jersey.
   • They’re used in a wide range of applications, from clothing (like coveralls, t-shirts, and dresses) to bed linens.
3. Heavyweight Fabrics (Above 350 GSM):
   • These are typically thick, durable fabrics that provide warmth and are often less breathable.
   • Common types include denim, tweed, and canvas.
   • They’re commonly used for winter clothing, upholstery, and other items that require a sturdy fabric, like tote bags and heavy curtains.

How to measure fabric GSM?

Fabric GSM (Grams per Square Meter) is a critical measurement in the textile industry, reflecting the weight and density of a fabric. Here are the general steps to measure fabric GSM:

1. Cut a Fabric Sample: Cut out a piece of fabric that’s 100 square centimeters (10cm x 10cm). This sample size is often used because it simplifies the calculation process.
2. Weigh the Fabric Sample: Using a highly accurate scale, weigh the fabric sample in grams.
3. Calculate the GSM: Since your sample is 100 square centimeters (which is 0.01 square meter), the weight of this piece in grams is the same as the GSM. For example, if your sample weighs 2 grams, the fabric GSM is 200.

This is a simplified method for obtaining a rough estimate of fabric GSM. In professional settings, manufacturers use special GSM cutters and scales to get more accurate measurements. A GSM cutter cuts out an exact 100 square centimeter sample, and a fabric scale provides a precise weight reading.

How does GSM affect the fabric?

GSM can significantly affect the physical and functional attributes of the fabric, including its thickness, opacity, durability, and drape. Here’s a closer look at how GSM affects fabric:

1. Thickness: Higher GSM typically means a thicker fabric. For example, a heavy-duty denim or upholstery fabric often has a high GSM and is thicker than a lightweight voile or chiffon fabric with a low GSM.
2. Opacity: Fabrics with a higher GSM tend to be more opaque. Lighter fabrics with lower GSM are often more transparent or sheer.
3. Durability: Heavier fabrics (with higher GSM) are usually more durable and resistant to wear and tear. They’re often used for outerwear, upholstery, or workwear, where durability is particularly important.
4. Feel and Drape: The GSM of fabric can influence its hand feel and drape (how it hangs and flows). Lighter fabrics usually have a softer, more fluid drape, making them suitable for items like blouses and dresses. Heavier fabrics, due to their weight and thickness, have a more structured drape, making them ideal for items like jackets or structured bags.
5. Breathability and Warmth: Lighter fabrics (with lower GSM) are generally more breathable, making them suitable for summer clothing. In contrast, heavier fabrics are less breathable and provide more warmth, making them ideal for winter clothing.
6. Absorbency: Higher GSM fabrics generally have better absorbency, which makes them suitable for products like towels or cleaning cloths.

GSM Ranges for different types of fabric

GSM provides an indication of a fabric’s weight and density. Different types of fabrics typically fall within certain GSM ranges, which can help guide their intended use. Here’s a general guide to the typical GSM ranges for various types of fabric:

1. Very Lightweight Fabrics (Below 100 GSM):
   • Fabrics: Chiffon, Voile, Organza, Tulle
   • Uses: Delicate clothing items, scarves, lingerie, sheer curtains
2. Lightweight Fabrics (100-200 GSM):
   • Fabrics: Cotton Lawn, Rayon, Linen, Poplin, Seersucker
   • Uses: Shirts, summer dresses, lightweight curtains, handkerchiefs
3. Medium Weight Fabrics (200-350 GSM):
   • Fabrics: Flannel, Sateen, Knit Jersey, Velvet, French Terry
   • Uses: T-shirts, leggings, bed sheets, light blankets, upholstery
4. Heavyweight Fabrics (350-600 GSM):
   • Fabrics: Denim, Twill, Canvas, Fleece, Tweed
   • Uses: Jeans, jackets, heavy curtains, canvas bags, upholstery
5. Very Heavyweight Fabrics (Above 600 GSM):
   • Fabrics: Heavy Fleece, Melton Wool, Heavy Canvas
   • Uses: Coats, heavy blankets, upholstery, rugs

Choosing the right fabric GSM for your need

Choosing the right fabric GSM (Grams per Square Meter) for your needs is crucial in getting the right balance of comfort, durability, and functionality. Here are some considerations to help guide your selection:

1. Purpose of the Fabric: The intended use of the fabric is the most important factor when choosing the right GSM. For instance, if you’re making summer clothing, you may want to choose a lightweight fabric (below 200 GSM) like cotton or linen for their breathability. For winter clothing or heavy-duty items, a heavier fabric (above 350 GSM) like wool or denim could be more appropriate.
2. Comfort and Feel: Lighter fabrics are generally softer and more flexible, which makes them comfortable for clothing items. Heavier fabrics, while less flexible, can offer a more structured look and feel, which might be suitable for upholstering furniture or creating sturdy bags.
3. Durability: If the fabric will be subjected to heavy use or rough conditions, a higher GSM fabric will typically be more durable and long-lasting. This is particularly relevant for items like workwear, outdoor equipment, or heavy-duty upholstery.
4. Climate and Weather: The climate or weather conditions where the fabric will be used can also influence the best GSM to choose. Lighter fabrics are suitable for hot climates as they are more breathable, while heavier fabrics are ideal for cold climates due to their insulating properties.
5. Opacity: If you require a fabric that isn’t see-through, opt for a higher GSM. Fabrics with a low GSM are often semi-transparent or sheer.
6. Care Instructions: Heavier fabrics tend to hold up better to frequent washing and use, while lighter fabrics may require more delicate care.

Common misconceptions about fabric GSM

There are a few common misconceptions about fabric GSM that can lead to confusion or improper use of fabric. Here are some of them:

1. Higher GSM Equals Higher Quality: A higher GSM does indicate a denser, thicker fabric, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the fabric is of higher quality. Quality depends on many other factors such as the type of fiber, the weave or knit, the finish, and the overall craftsmanship.
2. GSM Determines Softness: The softness of a fabric isn’t solely determined by its GSM. While lighter fabrics (lower GSM) often feel softer and smoother than heavier ones, the material and finish also play significant roles in how soft a fabric feels.
3. GSM is the Only Important Measure: While GSM is an important factor in choosing fabric, it’s not the only one. Other factors like the type of fiber, weave or knit, colorfastness and finish are equally important in determining how the fabric will look, feel, and perform.
4. All Fabrics of the Same GSM are Similar: Two fabrics can have the same GSM but have very different characteristics depending on the type of fiber used, the method of construction (knit or woven), and the finish applied. For example, a 200 GSM cotton fabric will feel very different from a 200 GSM polyester fabric.
5. GSM Reflects Fabric Thickness: While GSM can give a general idea about the thickness of a fabric, it’s not a direct measure of thickness. GSM measures weight, not thickness; some fabrics can be dense but not particularly thick.

Conclusion

In conclusion, understanding fabric GSM — or Grams per Square Meter — is a crucial factor when choosing fabric for different purposes. The GSM of fabric can offer valuable insights into its quality, durability, feel, and opacity, all of which can influence its suitability for various applications, from clothing to bedding and upholstery.

It’s important to remember that while a higher GSM may often indicate a denser, more durable fabric, it doesn’t necessarily equate to better quality in every circumstance. The right balance of GSM along with other fabric characteristics can lead to a more informed choice, ensuring that the fabric meets your specific needs and expectations.